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Ilocos: A Paradise Up North

By ISAGANI HINDAP DIOSO

THE first light of day saw us admiring the medieval Ciudad Fernandina. People call her by a different name these days. Vigan greets us by flaunting her magnificent heirlooms- cobbled streets and stone houses unscathed by war that brought ruin to her sisters, Manila and

Cebu. Like a pious lady of yore, Vigan was serene in the morning mist. For that we couldn't be more thankful. Her composure brought calm to our weary bodies.

This journey north started with nine souls about ten hours earlier from Quezon City. Six were of bronze, forged by the sacred fire of Vulcan and tempered by the divine light of Phoebus. That is to say they were born of these volcanic islands and raised under the tropical sun.

Three were of white jade, chiseled by the four gods of the sky. In Oriental mythology they're the White Tiger, the Giant Turtle, the Phoenix and the Dragon and they represent among other things the elements and the four seasons.

Three more of the bronze joined the nine midway. Midway was the Seven-Eleven shop at Urdaneta City in Pangasinan. So there were twelve in all.

Time and space were our enemies. The Toyota Adventure that held nine passengers was too confining while the concrete beneath us seemed to go on forever. Nonetheless, spirits were high for each one, whether of bronze or of white jade had the assurance that he or she was in the company of friends. That mattered most. In a journey with friends, joy is a sure companion. Grace was with us too. Only this time she's Korean.

Paoay was mystifying with its architectural elements drawn from three building traditions- Baroque, Gothic and Oriental. The best way we demystified it was by contemplating its grandeur with butong- pakwan, butong-kalabasa, minatamis na beans and halu-halo with ice cream from a shop not far from the plaza fronting the church.

The city called “light” in Ilocano, Laoag, had a Manila feel with its sprawl and omnipresent tricycles. We arrived at Laoag before noontime, the sun reminding us that it’s the center of the solar system. Ironically while the heavenly nuclear fireball was relentless in radiating light and heat; the city was suffering from lack of energy. The absence of electricity raised not only the temperature but tempers as well. Only La Preciosa’s bagnet, pinakbet and sinigang na hipon served hot became the refreshing breeze that cooled us down.

“I have no enemies in front of food,” came one of Marian's many smart observations. The additional gust of soothing wind came from Alvin and Roma’s Migoy. The toddler provided the Pinoy must for any occasion- singing and dancing. So with renewed strength, satisfied stomachs and calmed interiors we pressed on farther northward.

Whoever told us that Pagudpod was merely 45 minutes away from Laoag must have been referring to other modes of transportation- a maglev train, a plane or perhaps a racing car. You can imagine our consternation when after 2 hours of driving past the light house of Burgos , past the windmills of Bangui; the road beneath us seemed to have no end in sight. But it was no one else’s fault but ours because we had plainly ignored the word “remote” when a magazine article said, “Pagupod’s remoteness makes it idyllic for people who want seclusion.”

The promise of Pagudpod’s golden sands and sapphire waters sustained our hopes during those times of uncertainty. We comforted each other with the thought that once we've held the plow there's no turning back. Our persistence was rewarded soon enough. The vision of Pagudpod’s welcome arch galvanized our faiths. Our spirits yearning for rest, we soon found sanctuary in Paradise.

Our Pagudpod haven was a newly-built cottage with four rooms. With air-conditioning and rooms good enough to accomodate four in each, it was a steal. Though not a beach-front, our temporary Tatay and Nanay, the owners of the cottage, more than made up with Filipino warmth and hospitality.

Our worn-out bodies soon bathed in the tropical waters lapping at the golden-grained sands of Saud Beach. All the guilts of this physically taxing journey were absolved, all murmurs of unfaithfulness were forgiven. In Paradise there is no darkness and we shall all be like angels.

 
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